August 20: "Not chic but warm"

Wind primarily in our backs except the last 20 km (10 - 15 km/h) Temperature 8° Celcius but we did not suffer from the cold during the night. I sleep with all my clothes on in my sleeping bag. Drizzle almost all day and gently uphill for 35 km then very steep (on foot) the last 2½ km. Anne at the edge of despair because of fatigue and knee pain. I suffered in silence. I did not think that it showed! Having gone over the mountain pass the following 25 km were all downhill and no need any more to slow down thanks to our brand-new tire. But because of its beeing much larger than the previous one (20 x 1.95 instead of 1.50), it was necessary to remove the mud guard thus exposing Anne's thighs to the spray of water from the front wheel. It was like a cold water bidet. We tried to shelter ourselves from the drizzle under the overhang of a rock for lunch. And our afternoon coffee was prepared and drunk in the lee of strong wind huddled against a huge refuse bin.

We arrived at Varmahlid around 6:30 and installed ourselves in a not very posh (there were flies and it smelled of cows) but well equipped facilities where everything was included: unlimited showers, a hot tub, heated dormitory, heated dining room with hot plate and dishes. Here Anne was able to wash all our dirty clothes and dry them out on the radiators that were so plentiful that we were obliged to leave the open door so as not to roast indoors! I go off shopping at the local supermarket (on the tandem free not only of trailor and luggage but also copilot) and buy a piece of lamb and strawberries for dessert without forgetting a bouquet of roses for this special day (Anne's 58th birthday). Upon returning, I find Donatienne and Hedwig discussing with Anne, our friends having spotted our unmistakable flags on the BOB parked beside our dormitory!


The dormitory at the Varmalid campsite

 

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